The first time I visited la Ciudad de México, I was nervous. It was July 2017 and all the news reports and state department advisories stressed extreme caution when traveling to México – of course I worried. It’s a poorly kept secret that drug cartels run big chunks of the country and political corruption has been rampant for decades. In fact, one of my final projects as an undergrad in 2014 was a report on the political psychology underpinning the disappearance of 43 students from Ayotzinapa Rural Teachers College in Guerrero heading to join a demonstration in Mexico City commemorating the 1968 massacre of Tlatelolco. These are the stories you hear that create fear in your body, but they never give you the full picture of a people.
México is so much more than its violent struggles and political instability. It’s full of history and beauty and cultural patrimonios de la humanidad – and the warmest humans you’ll ever meet. These aren’t just places worthy of an instagram shot – they’re remnants of people who lived with hope and possibility in their hearts, ingenuity in their fingertips, and whose descendants continue to impact the world with generational wisdom.
I’ve never been one to let fear stop me from doing something I wanted to do, so instead of panicking, I reached out to a friend from college whose family is Chilango. He’d been spending months at a time in the city working on research for his capstone project on Latin American Human Rights so I felt confident he would be a better resource than a generic blog or even the news. Within hours he produced a list of his favorite taco spots and places to visit around the city, and shared a few tips on how to get around (like “stick to ubers and pink taxis and don’t even think about hopping on the metro as a woman” and “don’t spend too much time in bars in Zona Rosa after dark”). He was also very clear – Mexico City is safe. It’s probably one of the safest places to go because it’s used as a neutral meeting ground for rivals. I don’t know how true that was back then, or how true it is now, but it felt reassuring to have guidelines on how to manage myself in a space rather than a blank ‘be careful!’… or worse, “don’t go”.
As a Mexicana-Americana who spent her childhood visiting rural México for weeks at a time, I knew enough of what life was like in México to push past all of the red-herrings in the news to see the reality for myself.
On that first trip, I fell in love. CDMX became my favorite city in the world – and I’d already been to Berlin, London, Madrid, Rome, Paris, and New York by then – it was no contest. I’ve since returned every chance I’ve had.
I didn’t dedicate a lot of time to contemplating the pros and cons of a visit during my Sabbatical when it came to mind – one month in Mexico City. It felt inevitable. I was searching for myself on this trip – the me I’d once been before life stopped feeling hopeful – so going back to a place I’d felt love, it wasn’t a question of if, it was a question of exact dates.
Mexico City’s climate is pleasant year-around with rain from June to September that is inexplicably contained to late afternoon and evening. Picture springtime with sunshine and a light jacket, no matter the season. That all being said, it’s better to determine a travel time period based on the cultural traditions that take centerstage. Some choose spring to take part in Semana Santa celebrations; others prefer the fiestas in the summer and winter holidays. I wanted something different.
Fall in México comes alive with el Grito (September 15th), Día de los Muertos (October 31-November 2), y Fórmula 1 (last weekend of October). No, that last one is not a joke – Mexicans are surprisingly big fans of the sport and that’s only grown in the years since Sergio Perez became a driver on the grid. I’ve been a fan since 2019 and was looking for an opportunity to attend another Grand Prix. When I realized the Mexico City date was the weekend before Día de los Muertos, the itinerary just fell into place.
I wish I could do it justice with a few words and a handful of photos, but I can’t replicate the feeling of wandering the tree-covered streets of La Condesa with the sunshine on my cheeks and the breeze in my hair. The smell of Mexican carbon burning under the parillas filled with carne asada as I walked past taco stands in el centro histórico. The pan de muerto and cempasúchil flowers lining silly Day of the Dead window scenes between small businesses in Roma Norte. The musical notes in the air of people chattering in Spanish, laughing and leaning into the chisme as they sip cafecitos under the rustling leaves in Parque México. The reverent silence in the hallways wrapping around the Castillo Chapultepec where European monarchs, a dictator, and a handful of Presidents once ruled.
To get the full effect, you’re going to need to experience it for yourself. Below I’ve created 2 guides based on your context.
- If it’s your first trip or your first trip was less than memorable, use the First-Timer’s Guide.
- If you have 10+ days to really settle in, jump over to the Slow Traveler Guidance before doubling back to the First-Timer’s Guide.
I hope your visit keeps you coming back for more.
Next time, I’ll bring you along for my trip to Oaxaca City to celebrate Day of the Dead.
First-Timer’s Guide: 5 full days in CDMX
Mexico City deserves as much time as you can give it but if you only have 5 days, you can manage to hit the highlight reel. This guide is broken up by neighborhood and I provide a suggested amount of time to dedicate, either full day or half day. This is intentional so you can mix and match based on your mood and preferences rather than follow a prescriptive guide. Travel is all about living in the moment.
The city is SUPER walkable and generally safe. I’ve made explicit notes of when to plan for an uber but otherwise expect to stretch your legs – it will help make room for the next taco.
Explore El Centro Historico (half day+)
Sights to see/places to shop:
- Bellas Artes. It opens at 11am. Entry is $5, they have Diego Rivera murals on every floor. Alameda Central is a park right next to it. Locals and tourists hang out there and there are often snacks available.
- For a birdseye view of the historic center, tickets to the view deck at Torre Latinoamericana are available online for 220mx per person.
- Across the street from Bellas Artes is Barrio Chino. If you want to explore, walk down Dolores St – you can’t miss it.
- Make a quick stop at the Gran Hotel Ciudad de México. It has a beautiful stained glass ceiling.
- El Zocalo often has festivals or art installations to explore depending on the
- La Catedral Metropolitana is worth a visit and typically offers free entrance.
Restaurant Options:
- Start your day at El Mayor for brunch. They open at 9ish and have a view of the archaeological site next to El Zocalo. You can get a mexican or american breakfast here and they come around with pan dulce 🙂
- Tacos!! Get some Tacos de Canasta “El Especial”(bean is my fav but the line can get really long)
- Cafe de Tacuba. Everything is so good. It’s a classic Mexican restaurant. I recommend the chicken tamal and the enchiladas.
- Taqueria Los Cocuyos
Snack Option: Pasteleria Ideal – one of the city’s most well known panaderias.
+ Side quest from El Centro Historico to make it a full day adventure:
- Go to the Basilica de Guadalupe. Mexicans and Catholics everywhere make pilgrimage to this historically important site year-around to pay homage to the Virgen de Guadalupe and witness the miracle of Juan Diego. If this is something that calls to you, it’s worth the visit.
- Note: It’s far, about a 20-30 minute drive to the outskirts of the city, but this is the day you’ll have the time for it due to proximity.
- For the gram: After visiting the Bascilia, make a stop at Biblioteca Vasconcelos to visit before dinner. It’s not close to anything else but this is the time you’ll be closest.
Dinner recommendation: Uber to El Califa de Leon for a Michelin Star taqueria that doesn’t break the bank. It’s literally a stand – no seats but the meat is the star and their green salsa is bomb. Try the red at your own risk (I didn’t even smell it).
Zona Rosa/Juarez (half day)
Sights to see/places to shop:
- Walk to Mercado Insurgentes and just poke around the stands.
- Wander up and down Calles Londres and Hamburgo and pop into the boutiques for some unnecessary shopping
- You can’t miss el Ángel de la Revolucion – an iconic monument marking your arrival to the city. While you’re there, stroll up and down Paseo de Reforma. Depending on the time of the year, there will be art installations and street vendors to visit. Bring cash.
Restaurant Options:
- La Casa de Toño: Hands down the #1 place I recommend to anyone going to Mexico City. This is a fast food chain but fast food in other countries is not fast food in the US. Lunch hour is BUSY but they still manage to get you in and out in a timely manner – full and satisfied. Make sure you have the pozole rojo and tostadas, everything is good.
- Taquería El Califa: not to be confused with El Califa de Leon (mentioned below). This is a taqueria chain with tender meat and yummy salsas. Worth a stop.
Bar Options:
- Handshake Speakeasy – voted best bar in the world in 2024 and consistently on the Top 50 in North America list. Requires advanced reservation but truly the best cocktails I’ve had anywhere.
- Note: There are many top 50 bars in CDMX. Handshake was the most noteworthy I went to but your palette may be different so take a look at the other options!
- On the outskirts of Juarez you’ll find Canton Mexico, a mixed-use space with a Victoria Bar (and snacks) at the end of the hallway. Fun vibe and a few shopping options and a tattoo shop. Created by local artists and entrepreneurs, highly recommend popping your head in and staying a while.
- Around the corner from Canton México is another top 50 bar, Hanky Panky. Instagram famous for its secret passageway behind a Modelo refrigerator, its menu is designed with a world traveler vibe and the bartenders are a good time. Advanced reservations are a must.
Roam around La Condesa on foot (full day, with a Chapultepec extension option)
Walking path depends on where you’re coming from, but make sure to:
- Prioritize walks along Avenida Amsterdam and Tamaulipas.
- Don’t miss Parques México and España.
- Explore the local shops, stop for a coffee in one of the countless coffee shops under the shady trees. Bring a book to read in the sunshine. Today is a leisurely day.
Restaurant Options:
- Maque for brunch in Parque México. If you’re feeling festive, order a mimosa with your chilaquiles.
- Start a mini-Taco Crawl:
- Taqueria Orinoco. CAN’T MISS. Make sure you try the Al Pastor and one of their unique recipes. The taco orders come with papas so you don’t need extra.
- Walk to Maizajo on the other side of the colonia. Squeeze your way into the downstairs taqueria where you can order tacos at will. Suadero and papa were my fav.
- Or if you’re feeling the taco overload, take a break and have dinner at Bobo in Condesa. They have in-n-out style burgers and an amazing Pistachio milkshake 😍 It’s a very popular place with small seating space so be prepared for a wait. (They make really good breakfast too)
Snack opportunities:
- Make a stop for a sweet treat at Odette (pastries) or keep walking until you get to El Moro (across from Parque México) for churros.
- If you need a break from walking, hang out at Boicot Cafe on Avenida Tamaulipas. They have couches and board games. Their dirty chai with oat milk is chefs kiss.
EXTENSION OPTION: Extend your day with a side trip to Chapultepec Park:
- Uber to Chapultepec Park. They have a lake with paddle boats and vendors with snacks. Again, bring cash.
- Visit the Chapultepec Castle for a lesson in Mexican history or/and go to the Museo Antropologico to marvel at the development of Mexican civilization, complete with a mini Chitzeniza and the Aztec Calendar. Both have a cost (~$5) but don’t require advanced booking.
- Note: if you go an hour or 2 before closing, the Museo waives the cost of entry.
Enjoy the sunshine in Coyoacán & Xochimilco (full day)
Breakfast:
- Before heading out on the 30 minute drive out of the city, fill your belly. Consider Cafe Nin or Bobo, BUT hold off on coffee.
Morning in Coyoacán:
Sights to see/places to shop:
- La Casa Azul, or Frida Kahlo’s house, is a key attraction in the neighborhood but advanced tickets are a MUST. During high travel sessions (April, Summer, October) they go fast. Book as soon as you finalize your travel plans.
- Shop in the Bazar Coyoacán (artisanal items) and Mercado 89 (has food too).
- Check out the artwork in Jardin del Arte Allende across from Mercado 89.
- There’s often a salsa class taught along calle Malintzin. Stop to show your support or join the group for a lesson!
Lunch Options: Generally there aren’t many noteworthy food options in the plaza area but Mercado 89 and Mi Compa Chava (mariscos) are the best I’ve come across.
Snack Option: Order a Cafe de Olla at El Jarocho and buy a cone of churros from a street vendor to munch on as you stroll.
Afternoon in Xochimilco (save this for Thu-Sun):
After having lunch, uber another 30 minutes out of the city to Xochimilco Tinajeras. Navigate to Embarcadero Nativitas for the best entry point.
- Boats are booked hourly. I’d recommend 2 hours (about 1700-1900mx) and grab snacks at the convenience store across the way if you’d like. Bring cash.
- There will be snacks and drinks available for purchase on the waterways, but not much actual food. Must have cash.
- You’ll also see mariachi boats for hire. Consider getting a few songs to enjoy as you row along the canals.
To order an Uber back to the city, you might have to walk out a block or two from the entrance to get a signal.
Teotihuacán (plan for a full day with an early start)
The Teotihuacán Pyramids are a must. El que no visitó Teotihuacán, no visitó México. That being said, if you can’t give the experience the prioritization it demands, save it for your next trip. This day will start early, regardless of what option you go with. México’s sunny weather means you’ll want to avoid as much of the high sun and crowds as possible.
Tour Options:
- Book a tour guide. The ruins are generally in good condition, but not enough to be self-explanatory. You can book a half-day tour with a company (like this one from Viator) that will pick you up in the AM from your hotel/airbnb in the city.
- If you make your way to the site independently and hire a guide there, make sure to book a ride back ahead of time. Taxis are notoriously hard to get back to the city!
- The hot air balloon company also offers a tour package without the balloon experience but it’s packed with additional stops and add ons. View it on their website.
- The Hot Air Balloon Experience. I don’t recommend this for first timers because without an explanation of the significance of the monuments, you miss the magic, but it is truly worth the investment.
- When I booked with the company linked above, the full package included breakfast in a cave restaurant and an hour of time on the pyramid grounds (entry ticket not included, ~$5 at the gate), but no guide. You can hire someone there but 1 hour isn’t enough for a tour so I don’t recommend this option.
- Be warned, pick up is a 4 am depending on where you’re staying. You’ll be back in the city by 1 pm.
- When I booked with the company linked above, the full package included breakfast in a cave restaurant and an hour of time on the pyramid grounds (entry ticket not included, ~$5 at the gate), but no guide. You can hire someone there but 1 hour isn’t enough for a tour so I don’t recommend this option.
I’d recommend planning for a free afternoon. You’ll likely to be exhausted after the outing and will need some rest before being able to head back out to explore.
Live the Bougie life in Polanco (half day)
I’m gonna be honest, Polanco is not my favorite neighborhood. I wanted to like it, but it just didn’t align with my vibe. I’m including it here because your tastes may differ from mine and that’s OKAY!
Sights to visit:
- Visit El Pendulo, a well-known bookstore/cafe in the city and have a coffee on the second floor terrace surrounded by shelves bursting with books.
- Stroll though Parque Lincoln and grab a snack from a vendor.
- Pop into the boutiques in the Pasaje Polanco, Masaryk. Serhena is a must stop.
- Head up Avenida President Masaryk (lined with well-known designer stores) to TANE to snap a photo next to the infamous “México Mi Amor” red wall.
Restaurants: Polanco is packed with highly rated restaurants including Pujol and Quintonil which boast 4 Michelin Stars between them and 4 dollar signs, not to mention a Nobu. I wasn’t feeling the vibe so I settled for a sandwich at Le Pain Quotidien with a side of people watching on the corner of calles Óscar Wilde and Virgillo before heading back to La Condesa. I hope your experience is more enjoyable!
Slow Traveler Guide: 10+ days in the city
My slow travelers, your priorities have shifted. You’re not here to collect instagramable moments. You’re here to revel in the culture, in the experience, in the joy of the moment.
The first timer’s guide is written to push you to consider a slower traveler mindset – don’t dismiss it! It has plenty for you to consider; the difference is you get to do it on your own timeline. I recommend stretching each half day into 2-3 days of wandering at your own pace. Use each section as a guide to start your exploration of a barrio, but not a prescriptive itinerary. These are just reference points; the true mark of a traveler is found in feeling what lies behind the sight in front of you.
Engage with travelers along the way and ask them for their favorite discoveries. Talk to locals (in Spanish as much as possible) and ask them for what they enjoy that you wouldn’t find in a guide book. Ask bartenders for their favorite spots to unwind and waiters for their top recommendations.
I have my own evergrowing list of these, but I’m going to keep it to myself. Not to gatekeep but to encourage you to build your own. That’s the joy of slow travel and I’d never want to gatekeep you from that.
I will tell you this:
- The best bars are recommended by Top 50 bartenders and located in the overlooked edges of Roma Norte, La Condesa, and Juárez.
- The most memorable taco experiences happen in less traveled neighborhoods after a night out with new friends and cost $60 pesos a piece.
- The tastiest cafecitos are served over chisme with a panesito on the side under the shade of treelined streets in La Condesa.
- And the coolest park in the city is an hour away and costs an eyepopping $70 for a tour (book in advance).
Storytelling con Marissa 
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